Intro:
What follows here are some of the things I've learned about windsurfing,
with more to come later. I'm a forty something windsurfer; and I
didn't really get started in windsurfing until I was forty something.
Someone once told me that I was too old to learn how to jibe. Wrong!
From what I've seen here in Corpus Christi, windsurfers can learn how to
jibe at any age. At first inexperience, and
now aches and pains have kept me from rough water and big air, so I spend
my windsurfing time going fast and practicing jibes on the Laguna Madre.
At 6'1'', 170lbs., I find my older model F2 Xantos 295 (a great board)
serves me well. I usually try to sail when the winds are 20 mph and
up so I can use my older model Gaastra RAF sails (they're easy to handle
and jibe).
Here are the sails I use for various
approximate wind speeds: |
20mph: 5.7 |
25mph: 5.0 |
30mph: 4.6 |
35mph+: 4.1 |
I'm usually on the 5.7 or 5.0; but we have a bunch
of days here each year when the smaller sails are needed. I sail
the Xantos with 7.8 to 4.1 sails; and if I get overpowered on the Xantos
in higher winds I switch to a used 8'6" fiberglass wave board I bought
off a friend at Bird Island Basin. This trick of switching to a smaller
board usually saves me from having to rig down to a smaller sail.
To judge the wind speed, I use the Air Wind Speed Indicator by Pacific
Resources (shown). This is accurate, inexpensive, and gives the user
a good feel for what the wind is doing. Since the wind speed here
usually increases some as the afternoon goes on, the last thing I do is
settle on a sail size and rig the sail.
Top
Beach Starting:
The beach start is the best way to get on your board in shallow water,
and it teaches some of the essential elements of the water start.
To begin, take the board into shallow water a little over knee deep.
Make sure it's deep enough that your fin tip won't hit the bottom when
you mount the board. Stand on the upwind side of the board. Grip
the boom with a wide, comfortable overhand grip, and luff the sail (sheet
out completely with the sail flying like a flag in the wind). Point
the nose of the board about 45 degrees upwind, and place your back foot
on the centerline of the board midway between the front and back straps.
Sheet in some to power up the sail, and hop up onto the board moving the
sail toward the nose of the board some as you go. Sheet in more when
you're ready for more power, turn the nose off the wind some to get up
to speed, and you're off and running.
You can beach start in very light wind by using
the mast as a sort of pole vault to help you onto the board. Apply
downward pressure through the boom, mast, and mast foot to the board (mast
foot pressure -- mfp) as you hop onto the board. Sheet in some as
you go to keep the sail from back winding you as you move it forward.
Pump the sail if you need more pull from it to help get you up on the board.
With practice, you should be able to beach start in the lightest of
breezes.
In high winds, maintain a defensive position
with the body well back and upwind of the sail so you won't get launched
forward and over the other side. Keep the sail angled over into the
wind and close to the water to decrease the power. Sheet in slowly
and only when you're ready to have the power in the sail pull you up onto
the board. Then hop on, hook in, get in the straps quickly, and zip.
Top
Harness:
When you're ready to sail in winds of 10 mph or more, you're ready to learn
to use a harness. Harness use takes the strain off the arms and is
essential for sailing in higher winds and/or with bigger sails. I
recommend a seat harness with a reactor bar. Many people use waist
harnesses, but they can lead to a sore back for anyone prone to such problems--they
pull on the back the wrong way. Remember, a back is a terrible thing
to waist. The reactor bar has a roller on it as the contact with
the harness line and allows very fine and quick adjustments of sail position.
This makes for smooth and rapid sheeting out or in for good power control
in gusty conditions. Get a harness with a good, snug fit and an about
body center hook height. When using the harness, get it wet and cinch
it tight, then after a bit of use, tighten it again.
When first learning to use a harness, start out
in winds of about 10 mph and work your way up. The wonderful instructional
video "Turning Point" with Peter Hart is good for learning harness and
footstrap use as well as many other windsurfing skills. At first,
set the harness lines long enough and the boom low enough so it's easy
to hook in and out (when you get good in strong winds, shorten the harness
lines and raise the boom for better performance (for more information on
harness line length, check out the article on harness
lines in the windsurfing tips section of the CCWA web site)).
In light winds, to save the arms, you can use longer harness lines and/or
a lower boom to remain hooked in with the sail in an upright position.
Hook in with a forward movement of the hips and
not by pulling in with your arms. When hooked in and powered up,
commit your body weight to the harness to match the pull in the sail.
Relax your arms and grip the boom lightly with your hands (relax that death
grip on the boom!). When well powered up, commit your body weight
fully to the harness and sit into it like sitting against a wall.
The power in the sail will hold you up. Aim for the position assumed
by the fast sailors in the photo gallery--hanging out in the harness, arms
extended and relaxed with the sail raked back. Yes, if you suddenly
lose all your power, you may end up falling back in the water; but experience
will help you to handle those situations. If you feel you are about
to be launched over the other side by a strong gust, get in a defensive
position lower and further back, and sheet out as needed. If overpowered,
lean out over the water more, and angle the sail lower over the water to
cut the power. If you do get launched while hooked in, try not to
damage your sail or yourself, get unhooked quickly, and start all over
again. With experience, your frequency of getting launched should
decrease dramatically.
Top
Footstraps:
Once you are using the harness and starting to go fast, you need to learn
how to get into the footstraps. The footstraps allow you to control
the board at speed, go faster, and carry a bigger sail. The video
"Turning Point" with Peter Hart is good for learning footstrap use as well
as many other windsurfing skills. A good way to start is with a big
board with the straps well forward. Use soft, flexible straps that
keep their crescent shape and don't flatten out so they will be easy to
get into and out of. I use Gorilla
Grip footstraps made in Australia. They're not quick adjusting,
but they're light, flexible, keep their shape, are easy to get in and out
of, and don't absorb water. To avoid injury, adjust the footstraps
small enough so that only the front part of the foot fits in the strap.
The strap should not go over the arch of the foot--this can cause injuries
in a crash.
To start, while planing, try to place your front
foot at the front edge of the front strap and your back foot at the front
edge of the rear strap. Keep the board level with your back foot
and slide the toe of your front foot around the front of and into the front
strap. When ready, do the same with the rear. Keep looking
where you are going. Don't look at the straps. If you miss a strap,
move your toe around and try again when ready. Keep your weight on
your toes and off your heels. Try to get in the straps as early as
you can before the board gets going too fast. If the board wake tries
to take your back foot away as you go for the back strap, go for the strap
earlier before you get going so fast, or head upwind some to slow down,
then go for the strap. This becomes less of a problem with experience.
Concentrate on keeping the board flat, and bear off the wind a little if
you keep rounding upwind when going for the back strap.
You don't have to be going fast to get into the
straps. As long as you have good planing power potential in the sail,
you can get in the straps early and go. In overpowered conditions,
you can even waterstart with your feet in the straps, power up the sail,
hop onto a plane, hook in, and zip (a little tricky, but it works).
When you get comfortable with the straps on the
big board, you can try going to a smaller board with the straps forward.
When you get good with this, you can move the straps back to suit your
sailing style.
Top
Waterstart:
This is explained very well in the "Turning Point" video. I just
want to add a few of my own thoughts. Once you have learned to beach
start well out of deeper water, you are ready to learn the waterstart.
If you can learn in shallow water where you can still touch the bottom,
that will be a help. Otherwise, you'll just have to swim things into
position. In deep water, a life jacket will help with floatation
and make things easier. Most find it easier to learn with a small,
light, nocam 5.0 or 5.7 meter sail with a small luff sleeve that will not
hold a lot of water. The larger, heavier, cambered race sails with
large luff sleeves are more of a challenge to waterstart. Point the
board into the wind with the mast across the wind (perpendicular to the
wind direction). Pop the sail battens around first. To fly the sail
from the water, you can go to the tip of the mast to free it working your
way down, or grasp the mast well above the boom launching it up and forward
into the wind, or you can lever the boom over the back of the board then
grasp the mast or boom and fly the sail. Place your hands on the
boom about shoulder width apart. Keep the sail flying while you get
in position for the waterstart. Fly the sail higher in lighter winds
and lower in higher winds. Point the board off the wind somewhat;
and place the heel of your back foot on the board about midway between
the front and back straps. Wait for a good gust, then raise the sail
and let the wind pull you up onto the board. Kick the water with
your front leg and pump the sail to help the wind get you up. Pumping
the sail helps me the most. Keep your arms straight high over your
head and apply the power in the sail down into the mast foot to pole vault
yourself onto the board. Once up, sheet out some if needed to keep
from being thrown over the other side, then point the nose of the board
off the wind, sheet in, hook in, get in the straps, and you are gone.
If the wind is light, wait for a good gust and work hard to get up and
get planing. If the wind is strong, keep the sail low, raise it slowly
into the wind, and control the power so you don't get launched. If
way overpowered, you can start with both feet in the straps, carefully
raise the sail until the wind pulls you up, then hook in and hang on!
Top
Learning to jibe:
I won't cover all the many details of doing a jibe here -- that is well
covered by others. These are just some hints to help your learning
process. If you're in the straps and going fast, you're ready
to learn planing jibes. A good way to start is to watch some videos.
I recommend "Turning Point" and "Carve Clinic 2" with Peter Hart.
If you can learn to do everything he tells you to do, you will be great.
Next, watch others, take lessons (with videotaping if available) when you
need them, and keep watching the videos -- as your knowledge and experience
increase, you will get much more out of them. On the water, a good
way to start is with sub planing jibes on a 10 mph day. Use a big
board and a small sail. Get good at those jibes. Until you
are planing all the way through your planing jibes, the end of those jibes
will be a sub planing jibe; and this practice will pay off.
Next, get the feel of your rails at planing speed.
If you are going fast, you have learned to sail the board flat from rail
to rail -- if you dig that windward rail, the board will tend to head up
and slow down. In the jibe, you need to use the leeward rail to carve
the turn. So, learn to use those rails to carve through the water
like a wake board or surfboard. Start with S turns at speed.
Then do your stops with fast, carving 90 degree turns upwind (always look
before you do turns). Now try 180 degree turns downwind. If
you don't flip the sail, you'll be back winded and dumped at the end.
When you learn to flip the sail at the right time and stay on the board,
you've done your first jibe. It may take a while before you can make
most of them, but practice really helps. Then, to plane all the way
through most of them takes more practice, good technique, good power in
the sail, and good speed. Good luck.
Top
Air Time:
Although I have yet to catch big air, I do enjoy chop hops. If you've
ever done any jumps
on snow skis or a snow board, jumping a windsurfer may have a similar feel.
The idea on a windsurfer is to have good speed, good power in the sail,
and a good ramp to launch from. Have your feet securely in the straps,
pick a good piece of chop, and try to jump the board off the water as you
hit the ramp. Maintain good control of the board in the air and on
landing. Landing the board tail first is natural for me and is what
I recommend. Don't land flat. Start with small hops and work
your way up. As your skill and timing improve, so will your jumps.
For more information on jumping and other skills, check out
Windsurfing
Moves.
Speed: To
get the most speed out of your gear, you need to maximize power and
minimize drag. Rig your sail full enough to get good power and flat
enough for good speed. A too full sail is slower from too much drag;
and a too flat sail has less power. When fully powered up, sheet
in fully to or near to the centerline of the board and rake the sail all
the way back until the foot of the sail touches or nearly touches the board
-- "closing the gap". Keep the sail well upright. Pulling the
sail down over the water decreases power. Keep your front hand just
in front of the harness line -- keeping it up near the mast chokes off
power; and adjust your harness line position so you sail well sheeted in
without effort. Keep the harness lines short and the body position
fairly upright -- long harness lines with the body hanging way out over
the water = slow. Keep the boom positioned as high as is comfortable
on the mast -- this increases power; and drive the power in the sail into
the board with good mfp.
Position the footstraps and mast base as far
back as is comfortable to decrease the area of the board in contact with
the water and decrease drag. Keep the weight on the toes and off
the heels to keep the board flat from rail to rail -- digging that upwind
rail slows you down. |